![]() ![]() I may of used the old washer or made a new one up. Again from memory for the wiper motor end, the inner part of the cable (which was a bit thinner) I would off just crimped the end of the new cable with a hammer and anvil to hold the washer onto the new cable. I can't remember what I did but it would of been a simple fix like make a new clamp or make a sleeve to go over the cable to clamp down on. The clamp would not hold the outer cable in place because it would not clamp down on the smaller dia outer cable. This caused a problem at the wiper motor end. The new outer cable is smaller in dia than the original. I used some cable that I purchased from a motor mower shop and it worked sort of OK, but if I ever pulled it apart again I would replace the cable again. I wanted to change the cable because it was bent and all the protective coating was damaged. This is at 90deg to the rack, this helps hold the rack in a set position so the speed on the wiper does not change. The other end of the bowden cable moves the control lever on the wiper motor.Īlso on the wiper switch there is a spring and ball set up. As you turn the knob, the gear moves the rack and this pulls and pushes the bowden cable in and out. The other end of the wire that goes into the wiper switch has been crimped onto a small piece of diecast that has a rack profile cut into it, this locates onto the gear that is on the end of the knob shaft. You can't pull the inner part of the cable out because the end that goes onto the wiper motor has a small thick washer placed over the inner wire and the end of the wire has been crimped to stop the washer from coming off. The outer part of the cable is swaged into the main body of the switch. My bowden cable was in bad shape and the switch was hard to turn so I wanted to replace this as well. In saying that they are assembled from parts. Yes that is correct, the switch and the cable is one unit. If all else fails I have one switch here and I have a few adapters, just send me a private message and I will post you one for free. ![]() When it is assembled, the original switch on the dash pushes the new switch off, when you pull on the knob on the dash this releases the new switch back to the normal on position. I used 3 grub screws to hold the adapter in place but I was worried that if I screwed the grub screws in to tight I would further damage the existing Ford switch. In my case the di cast had broken away and there was nothing to hold anything in place. ![]() The trick is you will need an adapter to join the switch to the dash switch. ![]() You should be able to pick one up in America I would imagine. The switch itself is just a generic (normally on) switch. The tech sheet will give you all the specs. Here is the link which will take you to the page. I purchased the switch from a company in Australia, that used to be "Farnell" now they are called "Element 14. The switch that came out of my car, the plastic is broken as well, on the internet I have found that there is a replacement switch for a 64 or 65 (I think, anyway a later model) that looks very similar to the part that is broken on mine, does anybody know if I could use this part on a 63 switch? I just made up two jumper wires.Īnyway the end result is that I now have windscreen washers! I didn't realise but the switch that I used has the body close to the terminal blades to protect them and on the original wiring the spade connections have a large rubber boot to insulate them, the two don't go together. You can't put the bulb back in with the switch in so I had to remove the switch and place the bulb back in. It was under the dash that was a pain, I would place the switch in the position and in doing so would knock the right hand indicator bulb out of the back of the dash. To fit the cable to the wiper motor you have to remove the wiper motor from the car, which wasn't that bad. I installed the switch today, what a job. ![]()
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